Creating a board game based on RTS games.

[D2k Sardaukar]

Automatically is kinda hard, but you could just use a 'rough' brush on the edges to clone or erase (depending on layers). There are some rough brushes in Gimp like, Acrylic, Charcoal and Sponge. Try different sizes and just erase (or clone other parts) on the edges. I tried this on some edges in the image below.

[X3M]

Well, I have Gimp. But I have not really worked with it. It just so happened that I used it for that island. But it took me all day.

 

It has so many options. I lost track of where to look and how to use etc.

So, there is a tool that I can use by simply going over the sharp edge, and it blurs into each other?

I tried looking for the sponge, but it seems I am blind or something.

 

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It's the FINGER!!! isn't it?

 

 

Well, I have tried some stuff. Need to keep doing stuff, but that is for tomorrow. Thanks, I hope there is something that I will like.

However, if it is time consuming. I might not even implement this.

[D2k Sardaukar]

The finger?

[X3M]

Yeah, for wiping. Apparently I needed to select a pink finger that wipes.

 

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This evening, I will be printing 2 versions of my beach. Just to see how it looks like with the sharp edge method and the wobly method.

 

Instead of a sponge, it would be better if I use gimp with 7 layers, not just 2.

Is it possible to work with 7 layers? As if I add them like paint? I could even start with the sharp edge version and only work on the ridges.

 

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This evening (now). Well, I printed 2 vesions of my beach, but also the spire and the canyon.

 

Canyon; doesn't look natural at all compared to the other 3. The sand is not Obvious. Somehow the printer screws up the dessert texture. (Also the water texture). Perhaps I should apply only 600 dpi instead of 1200 dpi. (On second print, nooo, that won't work)

 

Spire; looks cool. Even though the sharp edges are still sharp.

 

Beach; Sand and water textures are odd. Grass looks fine, but could be a tad bigger for detail (or a lighter print?). Rocks looks fine as well. I am starting to regret, not testing out these textures before hand just like the grass and forest. They lack detail for the small hexagons. Colour dept is also needed.

 

Beach with wobbly ridges; waste of time, waste of time. I doubt that it would get any better. I should stop spending time on these things. And let a true artist work on them. I will keep my tiles functional. I am already happy with most textures. I can keep the wobbly ridges in. But the functionality is not there. So I keep the sharp ones for the next line of work. After all, the real art should be done by an artist.

[X3M]

I have decided to go with the wobbly edges any way.

Further, when the tiles have been coloured and I am happy with the tile. I remove the grey lines. They will dissappear completely.

 

I make a minimap first. A simple plan on colouring. During this plan I had to change the tiles from 19 to 27, whereas 2 will serve as doubles in the vertical placement of the lines. And 5 in the horizonal placement. This only for the planned maps.

But random maps are also possible.

The reason is that having a 19 hexagon tile map doesn't allow for symetric placement when making a big plan. I remember in the past that it didn't matter. But now it does since I create tiles instead of prints that are going to be pasted together.

The con is that I had to recreate all 28 textures again. But this was done within 30 minutes :) Wow, I remember when I needed 2 hours for just 1 texture.

 

I hope that I have one map ready for this weekend. Tommorow I need to do this in one go though. Luckily it is only a skirmish map with army units only.

[X3M]

Ghehehe, reached a point where 600 and 1200 dpi show no difference any more in the printing.

 

Wobbly edges without the fine grey lines is a great sucess. Some hexagons with the same texture even look a bit different.

 

Lesson learned:

Don't cut paper when you are sweating.

 

The all regions tile shows the differences in all textures. The only 2 that look alike are the shoreline on the beach and the ice texture. The colour dept here is minimal and you can't tell the difference when the light outside is 30 minutes before sunset (Netherlands sunset).

These 2 textures aren't used yet together in one map. Perhaps a rule to them that they only occur in certain area's? Or should I add more of the "main" region to them? Meaning, one has more sand and the other has more snow. I think, I go with the latter.

The same problem is with other mixed regions. However, the tile with all of them can be used as a reference?

[D2k Sardaukar]

I would go for nice clear contrast. Quite a few people, mainly men, are colour-blind or some equivalent thing. :P

[X3M]

Little update.

 

Which is which?

That question is one that we sometimes asked ourselves when watching the board.

We only had this with the mixed regions where the difference is sometimes very minimal.

Instead of 128/255 overlap I have applied 160/255 overlap for 6 mixed terrains.

We went drinking instead that evening.

 

You are right regarding regions, but I don't know how to do that with regions having less than 1200 space. It is already a shame that 600 is the minimum. A solution to that might change my course. We already know that adding numbers is waaaay to much work. And, I will not try things any more for colourblind people. It is a hobby game and not for distribution.

 

I want the oppinion of my cousin this friday evening.

It will be a play test with around 100 units for each player. And this time I want to add my new set of Event Cards.

There is no base building. But there will be the limit of 6 actions/round :). Including all the special moves.

 

Several tiles have been printed. But putting them together without sellotape makes them move around much more.

The combined map, facing worlds (2 tiles of the Spire). Wow, such a disaster :D. If you have Infantry only, the Snipers will always win when starting on top of the mountains. So a bigger map where the spawn points are out of range are required.

 

Even though I decided on having symbol units instead of designed unit pieces, having a colour under the pile, sure is annoying.

2 Solutions: 1; going back to own designed unit pieces. 2; keeping the symbols, but giving them colour instead. Resulting in having to print out 2 or 3 times the ammount. UghSigh. 1 sounds better then 2.

[X3M]

eat/work/eat/sleep/eat/work/eat/sleep/eat/work/eat/sleep etc. That has been my workweek last week and is my workweek until today. Not to mention, the little free time that I have was spend on Bloodbourne :) Which is a funny game since it is so difficult (but I grind, so meh :) )

 

However, I did have my playtest last friday. Well, to say that it was a test is not the correct word. It was an awesome game this time. Revamping the rules for an hour. 2 little skirmishes in combat. Then the bigger picture was at hand. We played for 5 hours in 1 game. 8 hours in total. And we sure had our beer with it.

 

Required adjustments:

- Terrain is still troubling visually. That is, the difference between some terrain needs adjustments. Ok then, Sand region, more YELLOWWW!!!.

And the ahem... C=hard ground. Yeah, !@#$ it, it will become concrete. That's right, a greyer region. In short, S-and and C-oncrete will be divided more in colour. And all terrain combined with sand and concrete will be more obvious too.

- Map segments, better to get 1 big map than combining tiles. However, the tile technique stays since it allows me for optimal use of paper (huray for that!!)

- Action points. I set those actions that costed 2, to 3. This because it would bring more balance. Then I thought, 6 might not be handy, so I increased this to 7 as basic.

 

 

Battle report sumarized

 

Choice of units:

We decided on 4 different units for this round. Only 3 where actually used.

The basic rifle infantry and battle tank. Both range 2, speed 2 and 1 armor with 1 damage compared with 36 armor with 36 damage. Costs where 100 and 600.

The third unit that was used was the LMG infantry. Speed 1, Range 4, armor 1, durability 6/4 (150%), damage 1, number of bullets 3, accuracy 4/6 (67%=2 hits average). Costs 200.

The 4th unit was between the 2 other infantry units. But we didn't need them. I even forgot the numbers.

 

Extra starting rules:

No income, no production, 3600 to spend at the start. We decided to divide the units in the corners. Really a round that was supposed to go fast.

 

Our armies:

I bought first since I am the game designer: 3 squads of each 1 battle tank, 4 rifle infantry and 1 LMG infantry.

My cousin bought 4! battle tanks, 1 squad had 2 of them. The other 2 squads where exactly the same as mine.

 

The rounds:

My first thought was YES! Since I could start focussing on his 2 tanks.

 

We didn't know yet, but it would be a slow round since the regions didn't allow for much. Most allowed only 1200. And 3 regions only allowed 600. There has been some simple blocking. But this seems to be important when using low numbers. The roll of dice was often unlucky when needed. And both sides had mixed squads. Which is stupid, very stupid of me. Back to the stupid later.

To top it all off, we were constantly assaulting and retreating with action points. Which also reduces hits to 5/6th or even 25/36th.

 

The lowest chance that we had was 5/6 x 5/6 (his retreat with an extra speed) x 4/6  x 4/6 = 400/1296 = 31% or in other words. Combat speed was 3,24 times slower. And only 1 MLG soldier was shooting on his. It could have been 3 MLG soldiers, but noooo. I had them in 3 different squads. :( This was the stupid.

 

We used the first round for getting into position.

It already hit me, my LMG infantry where divided while I need them in one specialized group. Since they have range 4. However, I could still focus on his 2 battle tanks.

The fact that we only had infantry/anti infantry and tanks/anti tanks, makes the game about 2 times on average as slow.

I thought, no sweat, we have Event Cards. I can fire him in the back. Well. That still keeps the game about 2 times as slow. New lesson learned.

 

Since it was 1 battle tank against 2 with the squads. And further more, he got into a position where I could not really send in help from another squad. Well, my infantry where of no use, only fodder. For exactly 1 action point. His tanks managed to kill 1 infantry right in the start. Since that one infantry would block cannonballs and no longer. My tank would be dying as well now. After death, I could send in the other 2, 1 by 1. Eventually they both died in 1 action by my last battle tank. That was my luckiest shot.

Another one of him was already dead. But he had 1 full health tank while I had a damaged one. I sended in infantry for protecting my last battle tank. But he managed to kill enough infantry for his battle tank to get through. (Which was just 1 infantry unit)

 

The end result was that I completely died. I did 2 strategic failures. More unlucky rolls. AND my last 2 Event Cards where of no use.

The complete game only took 8 rounds though.

My endscore; 0%. My start was 1680 health and 1920 combat.

 

His remaining was one medium damaged tank. 57/108 health.

1 LMG infantry unit with full health.

5 rifle infantry units. 2 had only 1/3 health and 2 had 2/3 health.

His endscore:

Health; 318,3/1720=18,5%

Combat; 740/1880=39,4%

Average; 29,4%

 

He was 41% better. But this was only noticable in the last 3 rounds.

[D2k Sardaukar]

Good to hear that it was fun, one of the best motivators there is. :)

 

Map looks nice on the (small) photos.

[X3M]

Thanks.

The small pictures, only because it takes a bit too much space when posted full.

If you want to see a detailed one, just let me know.

 

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Talking about, too much space needed. Posting here is only the story behind the game by now.

Talked a bit with my cousin about maintaining a website (idea from warhammer). But I know my programming limits; time and skill.

The website would also contain the rules, maps, units and event cards. For others to print and play.

Having a website also costs money. And frankly, even though the playtest was a great success this time. I rather don't take the risk just yet, knowing that it is not completely finished yet.

 

There are still things to work on and test.

And hopefully, we will have another awesome game played.

Now again with resource managment and base building?

 

To conclude, the game takes a hell lot of time and preparation (players print and cut their pieces/maps/eventcards)

It is a game that you play as hobby, not to purchase it in a shop. Unless it is something like warhammer. But it isn't.

The learning curve can be easy, but will be longgg.

I still wonder how my cousin could get it down within just 1 hour :).

Summary, not a game that would be purchased by the average person.

[X3M]

Small update.

 

1 month has passed. I am still trying to beat the third boss in bloody bloodbourne.

But not much time was spend on fun. Work, work, work. Some one leaves us, thus even more work work work.

Thank god I have spare time next Monday and Tuesday. Where Monday is spend on drinking and Tuesday on sleeping.

 

All sand regions are more yellowish, and it still looks natural enough. The trick here was to add yellow to the basic dessert texture. Than simply make all the combinations again.

Concrete however, well, how to keep it looking natural is the problem here. I did not really look for a good one yet. And adding grey to the texture that I had does not help. Moreover, I need to keep in mind that the snow covered regions also have some grey effect. So perhaps I should try to get my hands on something that can be called "natural" paths?

 

My unit box is almost full. :)

During my COD BO2 time, I cut some between the loading of missions. This helped. Otherwise, it is a very, very boring thing to do. But I managed to reach the first 1000. :)

 

Wasted time on trying to get a card game going. But that game is so !@#$%ing imbalanced. That I scrapped that idea for now. Well, it keeps hammering in my mind. Since it would be so easy to share, in comparison with my board game.

The imbalance was so scary, I immediately started testing some new situations again. Luckily my board game does not have these imbalances.

None the less, I do have to think of creating cards that give information about units. Because on the board we have our little symbols working for us. But the stats can not remain fixed.

 

My end goal would be having at least 2000 pieces ready (for 3 players that is) And have each piece linked to an unit information card.

[X3M]

Smaller update

 

Been fooling around with my +1 range rule.

 

I made adjustments to it. But am also wondering about discarding the rule entirely. And giving +1 range to all units. This would include melee units.

 

It is a choice between easiness or logic game effects.

 

The question for those who read this:

A landmine that can fire at a range of 1?

A swordsman that can swing his sword at a range of 1?

Not very logical, right?

What if the region they fire at is so filled, that some enemies can't hide at the border?

[X3M]

Funny how I forgot to update here. Just 3 things now.

 

- "Concrete" like textures are still on hiatus. But the desert seems fine now. :)

I simply have no...imagination of what would be nice and flat and can be in the mountains etc.

A question to you all, should I add deteriorated roads?

 

- The range issue has been solved. If you have units that are just 1 out of range. You may see it as if they are trying to fit in the targeted territory. Lets say there is room for 3, but you have 7 units. This means that you may select 4 units that get +1 range. Simple huh? A side effect is, you are out of range yet can fight. But as both sides grow smaller, so does the range back to default :). There will be a moment where it is wiser to close in. (Again a new strategy :) )

 

- I had complaints! Complaints about the primary basic dice roll. There are plenty of cases where you roll 0. However, each dice already has a 33% chance of rolling 0. My friends wanted this to be removed. So I had come with 2 possible solutions.

A, each unit has a 5 health factor instead of 3. Each die roll has 111223 instead of 001122

B, each unit has a 6 health factor instead of 3. Each die roll has 112233 instead of 001122

In both cases, the balance of 1 damage to 3 health is preserved. Yet there is no division by 0 any more. In other words. The game keeps going.

A side effect would be that some units now have an absolute 100% certainty in winning. I am currently calculating like mad to see if there are situations where this 100% certainty was previously less then 90%.

Also the big 6 infantry to 1 tank situation has my attention in this. I need to know the winning chances of the infantry. The closer to 50%, the better.

My friends want solution A. But I still have my doubts.

 

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If any one is good in programming a simulation. Please let me know. I need advice in how to do things.

[X3M]

If any one wonders if this still is going.

Answer is yes.

 

Things have,... become more complicated since the last post.

Life.
Time. etc.
I guess this goes for all.

 

I could explain it all. But it is a waste of time. Better show, instead of telling.

Just let me know what you think about these 2 cards. And in the meanwhile, I work on many other cards.

Of course I have to mention. These cards are used on pieces that are placed on the board. Like a risk game. But then more complicated. Ahem, see the rest of this topic above in case you forgot
Any way, they can be played as interrupt. That means they can save the day. Or ruin it.

I certainly need to work on the humour. But board game designers advice me to remove the flavour text altogether if I fail to get a complete set for all the other cards.

Edited August 16, 2017 by X3M

[X3M]

Both cards have already been updated the day after. The text got adjusted a bit.

The total is going to be 45 cards. And I have 23 ready.

However, I don't see a reason to upload them to this forum.

Is there one?

[X3M]

All 45 of them. Here is an overview from word.

Not going to share them in detail. Unless asked.

I don't know how well they will print. But here is the plan ahead:

1 - Front and Back should overlap. The first 2 pages in grey scale will prove this.
2a - Then maximum settings on dpi:1200, coloured and high definition. Printing Page 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9.
2b - See 3a. Also a version of 1200 dpi, coloured and low definition. Sometimes this one is better. Same pages.

3a - Checking text, is it readable on any of the cards? If not, or if the picture is not correct. They need rework. I might skip all the next steps towards number 7. And then get back here.
3b - If all is ready, the whole document will be printed in the correct way.
4 - Plastic layer will be added. Accidents can happen. If so, the 2 pages belonging to the victim paper will need to be reprinted.
5 - Nervously cutting them out. This has to be done manually. Accidents happen. If so, the 2 pages belonging to the victim paper will need to be reprinted, again. And they plastic layer needs to be added, again.

6 - Cuddling them.
7 - Show and tell. To the players that supported me all this time. Do they get the jokes? If not, 8 is at hand.

8 - Chances are that due to balance reasons, some cards need their value or rules changed. In that case. Only these cards will be put in a new document for reprinting. It can even be done with just 1 card. The only expense here is the plastic layer. Thus saving up to 9 cards would be best before doing this.

Edited September 7, 2017 by X3M

[X3M]

I have a lot to tell after those 2 years. But would any one be interested?