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Creating a board game based on RTS games.


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Well, counting pixels is a one time thing. And it's only checking 1 line to be perfect, that's 98 pixels at tops.

After that the field is done. And the hexagons are done in a jiffy.

A down part is that mistakes can be made without even noticing until the end. 14 x 28 became 14 x 25 while it had to be 15 x 26 for example.

An up part is that I learn really a lot about the nature of hexagons. And how they live in pixel land. I have started looking differently at pictures now.

 

Now 1 thing remains. Which program allows me to edit text and put that text in negative?

In other words. The numbers that I create will be a negative there where they are placed.

Can this be done with Paint.net? Which would make things easier since I want rotated (panning is something else apparently) text as well.

 

I use:

- Paint for making the hexagon cutters and cutting out the regions.

- Paint.net for making another test on the correctness of the hexagon. And rotate text 60 degree's.

- What? ??? for making the text in negative on the region.

 

If I rotate the hexagons 6 times. And save each time. The hexagon becomes blurred :(

Perhaps wanting to much is what is stopping me.

 


 

Editing so I hope it doesn't show on the main page again. I second that some might find it annoying that my posts are on top all the time.

 

I have choosen

Size; +26 x +45, 27 x 46 pixels

Inaccuracy on 1 meter; 0,74 mm

Sequence; 131213131312131

 

It is the smallest choice, so I can have multiple cutters more then the biggest choice.

The second choice isn't nice to work with. And 0,74 mm on 1000 mm is hardly noticeable.

Even if my friends plan on building one giant map that fills the room.

 

Even though I have little time. The Triangle grid is done and the main hexagonS grid is almost ready as well.

Before I continued. I took the liberty to test my new hexagon in paint.net.

And I have to see, a 100% fit once I turn it 60 degree.

I am satisfied for the moment.

 

I also calculated how big a 400 regions map would be in paint.

With a maximum safe size of 400 mB. Well, before the regions are placed, they are already PNG, thus only 200 mB.

Once the big map is saved as JPEG, only 20 mB.

 

For the sides I have thought of digital numbering.

Thus having the lines ready in such a way that the basic ring already has the 60 degree rotations.

And the numbers are all eights to start with. Except for the T and R. This is still black and white work.

Before the template is ready, the numbering that is turned 60 degree will have been sharpened.

 

So I can create hexagons with the picture, a center point, and a outer line with basic numbering.

 

But if any one can tell me how to invert the color of the numbers instead. Please let me know. That way the hexagons would look much cooler.

 


 

I have thought of a way of getting inverted colors on the info only.

This is how I should proceed for each region:

 

- I will be needing:

+ Primair basic template to cut out a hexagon of a picture. You have seen (the errored ones) these before.

+ Secundair basic template that has the default 8888-8888-8888-8T8R as a "digital" code from the 6 viewpoints.

 

- The primair will cut out the desired region.

- Then the secundair will be adjusted to the numbers that I need for that desired region.

- The secundair will be cut out of the desired region and saved in a second file.

- The second file will now be inverted in color.

- The second file will now be pasted in the desired region. And this one will be saved as a finished region. The desired region will be saved as a temporary default. So I can cut out different numbers afterwards without much hassle.

 

With this plan, there is a minimum and one time use of paint.net.

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  • 2 months later...

I certainly can.

 

This is a hexagon grid:

 

12814d1240932276-gimp-script-hex-grid-he

 

And the kind of terrain that I am looking for is this:

sampleMap.jpg

 

Although, I have posted some maps of my own in this thread. Which I have played with my 2 friends.

 

The only goal remaining was getting high definition pictures with accurate information for the game.

But I am very busy lately.

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You can google them. Those aren't mine. I am looking for using something similar.

For all that I got, please read this whole thread.

I know that english isn't your strongest point.

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  • 3 weeks later...

In my oppinion. The posts from 22_7_14 untill this one should simply be deleted.

Further. Just so happens that by watching warhammer. I got the idea that producing on before hand is for long games. And having a game variant where you simply select the units that you want on beforehand.

Both are fun. But for the new game. I could recreate a dune version. No base or production. Only the battle. It suits arrakis if you ask me.

If someone can provide a good dune map. I could create a board out of it. It would be print and play.

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Well, I decided that a Dune based board game would have almost(?) no interest. So I will mainly focus on the main game, which remains expandable in an easy way.

 

I changed rules regarding specific weaponry.

There is now a clear difference between normal units and structures. This enables me to make target specific weaponry more logical as well.

Dogs can't bite down Barracks any more (or other units like tanks). Snipers are nerved as well. 50% effect on most units. 200% effect on Infantry. So Barracks are once again more durable against them.

 

With play testing I have noticed that specific weaponry are now used later on in the game by my friends. Especially when a player has saved up several Event Cards.

But the new unit designs are used, and that is what counts.

 


 

Meanwhile, life is/was taking time. So I have not even found the time or will to get those regions done.

No one cared, so I won't care either.

 

All I know is that the big code is reduced to only 5 numbers when play testing with the simple maps.

And that forests and mountains can be stacked.

 

I due however want to pick up the "better" prototype plan again.

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It took me an hour to get this done.

Then I find out that the original example takes about over 4 Mb. Thus I reduced the sizes by 50% for showing purposes.

So the quality is a bit lower. I do have an original high definition example for those who are interested.

I guess via email?

 

Any way. I have some time again in my life. And was toying around with my paint.

Here is the result of a capped maximum HD quality.

 

post-2682-0-78092100-1408400240_thumb.jp
 

I don't know. I call these hexagons size 11.

- If I reduce them to 10, or 9 or lower. The nuke symbol in the middle gets bigger.

- Perhaps making the side lines thicker as well?

- he reason why I do this before I start adding numbers is the fact that I want to know for sure that the quality isn't toooo high. ;). Obviously too high. It takes a bit to much calculating energy for my computer.

- Another note during play testing is the nuke symbol in the middle of an hexagon. If the hexagon is turned 60 of 180 degree's. The nuke symbol is obviously different than the standard.

- I should not allow turning the hexagons.

- 1 Map should be transformed into a hexagon field. No separate hexagons any more. To much editing work. 1 Map obviously takes a way a lot of work. And the numbers can be put in later on. The new map can always be cut into pieces later on.

 

Where are those dune maps that I could work on guys? :D

post-2682-0-78092100-1408400240_thumb.jp

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Thanks.

 

Yes, google is a sort of friend in this case.

However, if I want to create pictures with1200 dpi. Then I need to keep things with a high as possible detail.

Further, having only A4 (perhaps A3) as options. I need to create larger map parts. Just having 1 hexagon in only great if the pieces can fit together nicely.

To get that, well, you need a thicker piece. Creating thicker pieces is really, really a lot of time consuming. And I do have work and private matters to attend to.

There is not even one shop selling hexagons that I search for. The ones to paste paper on.

Ordering online will not help me. Since I don't know if they are the right size and the right material for paper to stick to.

 

Still much work to do.

 

This was by the way the closest that I could get for a usable Dune map.

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d3e39e63e10ca7a24ace6630dda3f3243d2e8ea9

 

Well, there is a time and place for any thing any where. This includes the fact that I am rewriting my manual over and over .... and over ...

 

A (the first) part of my manual. Rewritten due to severe play testing.

With a primary rule, it has to stand alone and has to be understood alone.

 

Please let me know if a part contains errors in writing?

If you would have explained it differently?

Contains something that you don't understand?

 

The box should contain

  • 1 Main Manual
  • 1 Units Manual; The Beginning.
  • 1 Event Cards Manual; The Beginning.
  • 6 Money Trackers.
  • 6 Turn order cards. 1 to 6.
  • 24 normal dice.
  • 72 Whiteboard information cards.
    • To be used for tracking of Health, XP, Upgrades and Resources (gathering and remaining)
  • 144 Player Cards.
    • 24 for each player color.
    • This box should contain Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue and Purple.
  • 36 Action Cards.
    •  6 for each player.
    • And 18 additional in case of upgrades.
  • One big hexagon board.
    • Additional height regions.
  • 3 Times the Number indicated on the Statistics Card for each unit.
    • Plus 3 reserve.
    • In case of a total of 36 or more, 6 reserves.
  • 9 Times Group of units when the Number is above 6.
    • Plus 1 reserve Group.
  • A deck of Event Cards.

 

Game summary

 

In general:

A player has to make tactical and strategic decisions for winning. Players can move their forces around, attack other forces and train their own forces into elite units by fighting. There is also a big part of luck. But through gaining experience by fighting, this luck can be slowly turned into success certainty. However, players should always be wary that the Event Cards can tilt the scales in favor for enemies in a blink of an eye. The box contains material for 3 players. But up to 6 players can play the game with mercenary rules.

 

                A basic game:

In a basic game, there are 2 to 3 players. Each has full access to all the available units. The maximum of units allowed for each player is indicated on the statistics list. And is used for any game.

They often start out with a Construction Yard. Enough money for starting resource gathering. And a starting force that they may customize themselves.

 

The game ends when 1 player dies.

 

With 3 players, it is the remaining player with the highest score that wins.
Player Score is the sum of:

  • The worth of all that is still standing on the board. No matter how much it is damaged. Multiplied by 6.
  • All the remaining money that a player effectively owns, multiplied by 2.
  • All the resources that are currently carried by units.
  • All the XP that is spend or could have been spend: This requires calculating the upgrades backwards for knowing the total XP that each unit owns.

 

Resources that could have been gathered, but are still in the resource pools, do not count towards the score. Any player could have gathered those.

 

                A Mercenary game:

With Mercenaries, each of the players can donate money to these Mercenaries. Then the Mercenaries can choose to fight for them. Players however need to keep donating money if they want to keep their mercenary obedient. And Mercenaries may never return the money that they received.

 

Mercenaries can only produce units. They cannot gather money themselves. Nor can they construct additional structures during the game.

Before a game starts, Mercenaries can only construct a base on beforehand, this may include defensive structures. But they need to keep in mind that they need to produce units as well. Because they will start without units or have a small force just as big as the other players starting force.

 

The players get access to only 2/3th of all the units. The Mercenaries get access to only 1/3th of all the units. The units are put in 2 separate piles now. And should be returned to the correct pile after dying. This means that with players have to fight over buying units.

 

When fighting over units occurs: players need to check if it is indeed possible to produce these units for all the players in question. Then the number of units is simply divided amongst them. What remains is returned to the pile. However, the money that should be spend on the last units is frozen for that round for all the players.

 

If a situation arises that one player cannot buy the units in question, the other player needs to grab his/her chance in buying them while not receiving resistance. That is the only way to get the majority of units.

If a situation arises that several players want several different units. While they have to fight over them. They may come to an agreement and trade

 

The game ends when 1 player or 1 mercenary dies.

 

Both the player with the highest score amongst the players, and the mercenary with the highest score amongst the mercenaries, wins.

These scores are calculated in the same way. However, the exception is that Mercenaries cannot get a higher score by having a lot of saved up money. This way, a last minute donation by another player is of no use.

 

                A Chaos game:

Instead of 3 players, there are 4 or more. Each of the players has now a limited access to units as if they are Mercenaries. Thus they need to be lucky for buying the last one. Once again, only the number indicated on the statistics list is the maximum for each player.

 

The game ends when 1 player dies. And the total score is calculated in the same way as in a basic game.

                Additional rules to any game:

  • Players could choose to a “last man standing” game. Where the game only ends when one player remains. If all players are unable to move, the winner can still be decided by calculating the score.
  • Players could choose not to fight over units. But simply divided the piles accordingly. And leaving out what cannot be divided. Additionally to this, players could come to an agreement that one player chooses one unit extra, while another player has the same worth of units of other types.
  • Players could choose to have a sudden death. Which means that each unit that dies, cannot be rebuild any more.

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  • 1 month later...

No one cares about the manual. O well. :)

 

I have been playing around, so... here are some pictures.

 

2 Possible tool pictures:

post-2682-0-26238300-1413055837_thumb.pnpost-2682-0-91031000-1413055840_thumb.pn

 

Some possible designs including the camo layers:

post-2682-0-00771400-1413055838_thumb.pnpost-2682-0-49867000-1413055838_thumb.pnpost-2682-0-97285600-1413055838_thumb.pnpost-2682-0-99346900-1413055839_thumb.pnpost-2682-0-48094100-1413055840_thumb.pn

 

And another version for the light blue one using the second tool:

post-2682-0-43349100-1413055839_thumb.pn

But the result was kinda disappointing to me.

 

Let me know what you think.

- I am kinda searching for a 6th camo colour.

- And If any one of you knows how to make different shades for the same pictures. Please let me know. I could apply it to the camo and then make a more of a 3D picture form top. It would also possible reduce the chaos caused by the camo. You can't tell shape all the time, right?

 

I am planning to use this same technique for all my other units.

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2 versions with Blood!!!:

post-2682-0-51788500-1413066267_thumb.pnpost-2682-0-03959500-1413066268_thumb.pn

Some static texture :) :

post-2682-0-47926600-1413066268_thumb.pn

A hot one:

post-2682-0-14867100-1413066334_thumb.pn

 

And I bet I am now creeping people out with the creeper skin:

post-2682-0-99215500-1413066266_thumb.pn

 

 

Ok, with all these posted, I want 6 factions in the future. Which are the best 6. Or do you have a suggestion for me?

 

Let's not forget the one where it all started with:

post-2682-0-34357700-1413066584_thumb.pn

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Some of these colour schemes look very weird. Personally I'd pick (sorry I can't seem to properly quote your posts so that the pictures are displayed in the quote so I'll just name them in the order of appearance) #3, #4, #6, #8, #12 and #13 if you need all six.

Note: I'm counting all images in both your posts. Hope this is not very confusing.

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Thanks for reacting.

 

For me it is logical following the numbers. Although, calling colour would have been easier for any one here. :D.

I did some more testing before I saw your post.

I had some advice already regarding making some lines thicker. It safes detail of the unit.

 

I upgraded the first tool. Thicker lines where needed.

Discarded the second tool.

I recreated some of them again. #3 and #4 did make it to the second round. I think anyone likes them.

#6 and #8 are the same theme colour, blue. I am going for #6, since the second tool has been discarded.

#12 and #13 also made it to the second round, with some adjustments.

I have done a better version for the blood camo and the static camo as well.

I also introduced a grey scale camo. And a brown one.

 

If correct, I am able to have 10 factions in the future.

But for now, I need exactly 3 for the first game. I have given them letters.

I would like any one to vote for 3 colours up

And 4 colours down

 

A

post-2682-0-01732600-1413126590_thumb.pn

 

B

post-2682-0-62939500-1413126590_thumb.pn

 

C

post-2682-0-21608900-1413126591_thumb.pn

 

D

post-2682-0-72104700-1413126591_thumb.pn

 

E

post-2682-0-43376900-1413126592_thumb.pn

 

F

post-2682-0-88923300-1413126592_thumb.pn

 

G

post-2682-0-80461100-1413292368_thumb.pn

 

H

post-2682-0-76420900-1413126593_thumb.pn

 

ij

post-2682-0-19290900-1413126594_thumb.pn

 

K

post-2682-0-59537300-1413126594_thumb.pn

 

 

There is only one more lesson for me to be learned. But at this stage, perhaps it isn't necessary.

Another note: Each picture will be printed on a 20 x 20 mm or 25 x 25 mm card, with dpi 1200. Meaning that detail will be visible plenty.

 

I am starting to have fun again with designing. :)

 

Edit:

Updated version G on advice. Well, the dark red as secondary colour indeed was not shit. Nor was the brown. Thus I copied one of the camo colours for using as secondary colour.

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Votes until now:

A = 2

B = 1

C = 0 ( 2 votes )

D = 1

E = - 1

F = - 2

G = 1

H = 1

ij = 1

K = 1

A total of 13 up/down votes.

 

If you want to vote, please PM me with the votes. I said 3 up, 4 down. But it doesn't really matter any more. Most votes count ^^.

F is the best version in that class. But I think it is going down any way. Even I hate it :D.

A, G and K are classics apparently.

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Gathering opinions about something else:

 

2 months ago we had this, one wall protects an entire army. There was no logic in that.

So my buddies and I discarded this and changed this into:

 

The Support line cannot be targeted when the Meat line is equal or bigger in size.

Thus any thing behind the meat line is protected until the meat line becomes to small.

 

However, for now we tried 2 ways during play tests.

When the Meat line has become to small:

  1. The attacker chooses 1 target of the support line that isn't protected any more.
  2. The defender chooses 1 target of the support line that isn't protected any more.

There is a big difference in the 2 rules.

Now it is a fact that the Assault Tank can aim for any Grenadier in the Meat line.

 

If I where to use option 1. The attacker could weaken the entire Support line, yet keeping all alive in the support line. With only Grenadiers as targets, this does not work well. but with several different choices in other games, it can be abused in a bad way?

 

With option 2 the question arises if this has to be done on before hand? Thus letting the defender choose who is going to be in the flanks.

 

I asked the same on the BGDF. But they seem to think that it is more important to get rid of usage of walls in the game.

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